摘要
南宋画作《打花鼓》真实地再现了宋代杂剧女演员着男装表演节目的情景,有学者指出两位演员着男装具有“在女装上草率地披上了男装”的特点,但鲜少有学者进一步分析其着装的动机与社会意义。基于此,文章结合图像学、观念史的研究方法,分析图像,并从宋代女性、社会观念的角度探析画面中杂剧女演员“着男装”的文化意蕴,认为其男女装混穿的行为并非是草率而为,而是为了迎合宋代审美,展现女性自我意识的社会意义,且具有塑造幽默的人物形象的功能。
The painting"Playing the Flower Drum"in the Southern Song Dynasty truly reappears the scene of the Song Dynasty female opera performers wearing men's clothes.Some scholars point out that the two actors'men's clothes have the characteristics of"putting on men's clothes carelessly over women's clothes",but few scholars further analyze the motives and social significance of their clothes.Based on this,this paper,adopting the research methods of iconology and concept history,analyzed the images,the cultural implication of the female performers in the drama wearing men's clothes from the perspective of women and social concepts in the Song Dynasty.It is believed that the behavior of the female performers wearing men's and women's clothes was not hasty,but had the function of creating humorous characters,and the social significance of highlighting female roles and showing female self-consciousness.
作者
阮秋月
卞向阳
RUAN Qiuyue;BIAN Xiangyang(School of Fashion and Art Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200052,China)
出处
《武汉纺织大学学报》
2024年第5期10-14,共5页
Journal of Wuhan Textile University
基金
国家社科基金艺术学重点项目(21AG013)。
关键词
《打花鼓》
宋代服饰
女着男装
观念史
服饰文化
"Playing the Flower Drum"
Song dynasty costumes
women's clothing
history of ideas
costume culture
