摘要
克孜尔石窟壁画中的耳饰大体包括玦、耳珰、耳环及耳坠。玦又分为素面、阴刻环纹及配宝珠三种类型。耳珰可分为圆柱形和圆环形两种类型。耳环表面有的为素面,有的刻环形纹或花瓣,有的镶嵌两排宝珠。耳坠则分为挂穗形、尖锥形、桃心形和宝珠形四种。其中,素面耳环和宝珠形耳坠一直流行。在古代龟兹,只有王公贵族佩戴耳饰,而且地位越高佩戴的耳饰越复杂,说明佩戴耳饰是身份和等级的象征。尖锥形的耳坠仅有女性佩戴,说明不同的性别在佩戴耳饰的种类上有一定的差别。龟兹地区民众在耳饰的佩戴上表现出强烈的选择性和一定的创造性,他们没有佩戴玦和耳珰,显示了与古代新疆地区耳饰传统的一致性。与此同时,在耳环样式的选择上,又选取了源自印度和中亚的样式。至于耳坠,则是在借鉴印度中亚耳珰的基础上,经过改造而形成了具有本地审美取向和社会风尚的类型。
There are mainly four types of ear ornaments in the murals of Kizil Grottoes： penannular rings, ear spools, earrings and eardrops. The penannular rings can be divided into plain surface, intaglio wave pattern and jewel inlay in the styles. The ear spools are usually in the shape of cylinder and annulus. The surfaces of earrings could be plain, with intagliated wave or inlaid with two rows of jewels. The eardrops include four types such as the tassel decorated, cone-shaped, heart-shaped and jewel adorned. Among the above ear ornaments, the plain earrings and jewel inlaid eardrops were prevailing all the time. In ancient Kucha, it was a symbol of status and rank for the nobility to wear the ear ornaments and the higher rank they belonged to, the more complicated ear ornaments they wore. Cone-shaped eardrops were only worn by the female, which reflected the gender differences of ear ornaments. People in Kucha showed intensive preference in choosing ear ornaments for they never wear penannular rings or ear spools, which show the similarity with the tradition in ancient Xinjiang area. What＇s more, the style of earrings in Kucha mainly originated from India and Central Asia while the eardrops reflected the local aesthetic taste and social fashion of Kucha by learning from the ear spools of India and central Asia.
出处
《中国国家博物馆馆刊》
CSSCI
北大核心
2017年第8期66-75,共10页
Journal of National Museum of China
关键词
新疆
克孜尔石窟
壁画
耳饰
Xinjiang
Kizil grottoes
mural
ear ornaments
