摘要
以中国丝绸博物馆馆藏的1件北朝时期绞缬女绢衣为对象进行了研究与复制。选择电力纺作为复制服饰用面料,采用纹样间的上下间距为1. 4 cm、左右间距为1 cm、捆扎圈数为2圈的绞缬工艺实现了鱼子缬纹样效果;以五倍子为染料、Fe^(3+)为媒染剂的手工天然染色方法还原了复制对象的颜色并推断为近深咖色;利用鱼子缬花版,采用顺接式和对称式2种纹样定位方式,使鱼子缬纹样与服装版型相配合,达到了鱼子缬女绢衣完整复原的效果。北朝绞缬女绢衣的复制,为今后此件服饰的深入研究提供理论与实物参考。
In this paper,a tie-dyed female silk garment from the Northern Dynasty collected in Chinese Silk Museum was researched and replicated. The technical parameters of tie-dyeing with distances between two dots of 1. 4 cm and 1 cm in vertical and horizontal direction respectively were fixed to do the effect of imitated pattern. And the silk plain habutai was chosen to be tied for 2 rings. In order to reproduce the color of the tie-dyed garment in the Northern Dynasty,manual dyeing was made with Chinese gallnut and Fe3+ mordant to obtain dark brown. In the symmetrical and contiguous methods,the tied patterns were located and adapted to the clothing pattern. The works in the paper will be in reference for further study of the tie-dyed plain silk garment.
作者
杨然
王越平
热孜古力
YANG Ran;WANG Yue-ping;Reziguli(School of Materials Science &Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)
出处
《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》
CAS
北大核心
2018年第3期47-53,共7页
Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition
关键词
绞缬女绢衣
鱼子缬
复制
丝绸服饰
tie-dyed female plain silk garment
tie-dyed shaped like roe dots
replication
silk garment
