This work aims to contribute to the characterization and understanding ofinfragravity waves on two beaches with erosion problems. For this reason, we have used an array of ADCP and a pressure sensor to measure wave pa...This work aims to contribute to the characterization and understanding ofinfragravity waves on two beaches with erosion problems. For this reason, we have used an array of ADCP and a pressure sensor to measure wave parameters and pressure inside and outside of the surf zone during the dry and rainy period in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar （both dissipative and eroded beaches） located in the Colombian Caribbean coast. Based on these measurements, we have carried out a spectral analysis in order to identify the frequency components that characterize the wave and its energy; thus, we identified the characteristic frequencies of iufragravity waves to finally filter the infragravity signal on each beach in different seasonal periods. Among the results of the Welch spectrum applied to surface elevation time series, we found that, the frequencies＇ energy of the sea-swell band decreases due to bottom friction and wave breaking as the wave approaches the shore, while the frequencies＇ energy of the infragravity band increases significantly. In addition, for the wavelet analysis, we could observe how the energy of the infragravity band, especially the lowest frequencies gain energy as the waves approaches the coast. Furthermore, based on the infragravity wave obtained from the extreme wave event registered during the field campaign we can conclude that the contribution of this signal is important in the erosion problems presented in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar. Finally, these results show the need to realize other studies that allow us to understand deeply, the role of infragravity waves on the morphological changes that occurs in these beaches.展开更多
The measurements by using ADCP (500 KH) and CTD were made during August 2000in the south (37?5'N, 120?5'E) of the Bohai Sea, where the water depth was about 16.5 m. The data of horizontal velocity with samplin...The measurements by using ADCP (500 KH) and CTD were made during August 2000in the south (37?5'N, 120?5'E) of the Bohai Sea, where the water depth was about 16.5 m. The data of horizontal velocity with sampling interval of 2 min in 7 layers were obtained. The power spectrum analysis of these data indicates that there are very energetic infragravity waves with a period of about 6 min. The coherence spectrum analysis and the analysis of temporal variation of shear show that these infragravity waves are mainly the free wave model (properties of edge waves), in the meantime they possess some characteristics of internal waves, which are likely due to the distinctive marine environment in this area. It is speculated on that the instability processes (chiefly shear instability) of sheared stratified tidal flow owing to the effect of sea-floor slope in the coastal area might be the main mechanism generating these infragravity waves.展开更多
The generation of low frequency waves by a single or double wave groups incident upon two Plane beaches with the slope of 1/40 and 1/100 is investigated experimentally and numerically. A new type of wave maker signal ...The generation of low frequency waves by a single or double wave groups incident upon two Plane beaches with the slope of 1/40 and 1/100 is investigated experimentally and numerically. A new type of wave maker signal is used to generate the groups, allowing the bound long wave (set-down) to be included in the group. The experiments show that the low frequency wave is generated during breaking and propagation to the shoreline of the wave group. This process of generation and propagation of low frequency waves is simulated numerically by solving the short-wave averaged mass and momentum conservation equations. The computed and measured results are in good agreement. The mechanism of generation of low frequency waves in the surf zone is examined and discussed.展开更多
Using the data of beach face high oscillations and waves and flows of the surf zones influenced by the swells, the characteristics including beach face variation trends, trend shapes, oscillation periods, oscillation ...Using the data of beach face high oscillations and waves and flows of the surf zones influenced by the swells, the characteristics including beach face variation trends, trend shapes, oscillation periods, oscillation intensions of different profile shapes, and the characteristic relations between different stake points on the same profile were analyzed comparatively. The relations between the beach face with high oscillations erosion and sediment and the surf zone infragravity waves were also analyzed based on the cress spectrum analysis. The results showed that the swash diffluences caused by the beach cusp rhythm topography hasten the sediment transport from the beach ridge to beach paddy, and the beach face of the swash zones has the infragravity periodic oscillations, and the oscillation intensions descend from the bottom to the top of the beach face, and the infragravity waves of the surf zones have significant effect on the high-frequency variations of erosion and sediment of the beach face.展开更多
基金The Program of Administrative Department of Science,Technology and Innovation under contract No.COLCIENCIAS 03932013
文摘This work aims to contribute to the characterization and understanding ofinfragravity waves on two beaches with erosion problems. For this reason, we have used an array of ADCP and a pressure sensor to measure wave parameters and pressure inside and outside of the surf zone during the dry and rainy period in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar （both dissipative and eroded beaches） located in the Colombian Caribbean coast. Based on these measurements, we have carried out a spectral analysis in order to identify the frequency components that characterize the wave and its energy; thus, we identified the characteristic frequencies of iufragravity waves to finally filter the infragravity signal on each beach in different seasonal periods. Among the results of the Welch spectrum applied to surface elevation time series, we found that, the frequencies＇ energy of the sea-swell band decreases due to bottom friction and wave breaking as the wave approaches the shore, while the frequencies＇ energy of the infragravity band increases significantly. In addition, for the wavelet analysis, we could observe how the energy of the infragravity band, especially the lowest frequencies gain energy as the waves approaches the coast. Furthermore, based on the infragravity wave obtained from the extreme wave event registered during the field campaign we can conclude that the contribution of this signal is important in the erosion problems presented in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar. Finally, these results show the need to realize other studies that allow us to understand deeply, the role of infragravity waves on the morphological changes that occurs in these beaches.
基金This study was supported by the National "863" Project of China under contract No. 2002AA633120.
文摘The measurements by using ADCP (500 KH) and CTD were made during August 2000in the south (37?5'N, 120?5'E) of the Bohai Sea, where the water depth was about 16.5 m. The data of horizontal velocity with sampling interval of 2 min in 7 layers were obtained. The power spectrum analysis of these data indicates that there are very energetic infragravity waves with a period of about 6 min. The coherence spectrum analysis and the analysis of temporal variation of shear show that these infragravity waves are mainly the free wave model (properties of edge waves), in the meantime they possess some characteristics of internal waves, which are likely due to the distinctive marine environment in this area. It is speculated on that the instability processes (chiefly shear instability) of sheared stratified tidal flow owing to the effect of sea-floor slope in the coastal area might be the main mechanism generating these infragravity waves.
基金This project was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundations of China(Grant No.5967900559839330)
文摘The generation of low frequency waves by a single or double wave groups incident upon two Plane beaches with the slope of 1/40 and 1/100 is investigated experimentally and numerically. A new type of wave maker signal is used to generate the groups, allowing the bound long wave (set-down) to be included in the group. The experiments show that the low frequency wave is generated during breaking and propagation to the shoreline of the wave group. This process of generation and propagation of low frequency waves is simulated numerically by solving the short-wave averaged mass and momentum conservation equations. The computed and measured results are in good agreement. The mechanism of generation of low frequency waves in the surf zone is examined and discussed.
文摘Using the data of beach face high oscillations and waves and flows of the surf zones influenced by the swells, the characteristics including beach face variation trends, trend shapes, oscillation periods, oscillation intensions of different profile shapes, and the characteristic relations between different stake points on the same profile were analyzed comparatively. The relations between the beach face with high oscillations erosion and sediment and the surf zone infragravity waves were also analyzed based on the cress spectrum analysis. The results showed that the swash diffluences caused by the beach cusp rhythm topography hasten the sediment transport from the beach ridge to beach paddy, and the beach face of the swash zones has the infragravity periodic oscillations, and the oscillation intensions descend from the bottom to the top of the beach face, and the infragravity waves of the surf zones have significant effect on the high-frequency variations of erosion and sediment of the beach face.
